Your classic vehicle is an investment. It may even be a member of the family. At Driven Restorations LLC we take pride in providing honest, professional restoration and maintenance services for classic cars and trucks. Our customers come first. That's why we provide you with the best products, highest quality finishes and professional restoration services to fit your needs.
Our work says it all. See some examples of completed projects in our gallery, then email us at drivenrestorations@gmail.com or call (920)326-9314 to discuss your project needs.
In the event that you have to replace your windshield on your 1968-1970 B-body Mopar, you need to know what you're getting into before getting started. This is a step by step guide to the process of replacing or removing and reinstalling the original glass.
In our example, this 1970 Plymouth Road Runner was receiving a complete paint job with interior and exterior color change. To paint a car properly, the windshield must be removed.
Read on for our step by step process of handling the windshield.
BEFORE: This 1970 Roadrunner will receive a complete interior and exterior color change and the vinyl top will be eliminated
Before: Existing trim and glass
Before: Existing trim and glass
1. Remove the existing stainless trim around the windshield. Careful not to bend or crease your trim, look at the clip type and location(more photos later in this post), and use a clip removal tool (looks like a forked pry bar in most cases) suitable for your application.
2. Remove the windshield gasket and glass. It is likely that you will need to cut the rubber weatherstripping gasket that is holding the glass in place to remove the glass without breaking it. There are a variety of tools made for this purpose which will allow you to cut the gasket without gouging your windshield.
NOTE- Save any and all clips that are screwed into the body of the car which hold the trim in place. You will need these or their replacements.
3. Inspect the windshield glass channels for rust and holes
We lucked out with mostly surface rust on this Road Runner.
4. Clean up, repair, seal and paint the glass channel per your application. In this case we needed a complete color change and did all repairs required followed by painting the entire car.
Now that the paint is completed, including wet sanding an buffing, we can continue with the assembly and glass installation. Notice that the dash is in place already. You can't reinstall the dash if the glass is in the car.
Cleaned, prepped, seam sealed and then painted, the glass channel area is ready for clip placement, windshield gasket and then glass installation
5. Prep for windshield glass installation Place clips in the correct locations around the windshield and clean the windshield you plan to install. All clips and glass should be clean and free of old urethane. Hopefully you kept all the clips when you took the glass out. You will need them for re-installation. Didn't keep them or they're not fit for use? Find new ones online at Mega parts USA or another retailer of your choice. USE THE OLD CLIPS TO COMPARE TO THE ONES YOU BUY! Also note, the re-pops almost never fit and work quite like the original clips, so save them if you can!
We are re-installing the original windshield. Clean and prep the glass, removing all traces of old urethane, over spray from old paint jobs or other dirt and debris. We used a razor blade and lacquer thinner to ensure a clean surface on the glass. Inspect closely for hairline cracks and chips before deciding to re-install used glass.
6. Lay out your gasket so it will be easier to form to the opening.Place urethane adhesive in the glass channel run.(photo below)
Urethane in place in the glass channel area as we prepare to place the windshield gasket. This stuff is a complete mess. Be very careful not to get it on any surface you plan on keeping intact!
7. Place the gasket in the windshield opening and let it set in place for at least an hour or two to let the urethane set and seal the gasket to the body before you install the glass(photo below) Note that the clips are slightly visible in some spots and they are installed before the gasket is placed
Windshield gasket in place. Ready for glass installation
8. Place the windshield. 2 people with suction cups make glass placement much easier.
Using proper equipment for handling the glass makes this a smooth process. 2 people with suction cups ensures easier placement. Try to seat the bottom of the windshield directly into the gasket.
9. Seat the glass in the gasket using the appropriate plastic tool
Use the plastic installation stick aka equalizer stick or push stick (This is a low dollar tool investment that you'll need for this) to seat the glass in the gasket without scratching surfaces.
10. Seal the gasket and glass for an air and water tight fit
Once seated in the gasket all the way around the windshield, place a urethane sealant in the gasket, immediately removing any excess
Windshield and gasket in place
11. Allow the windshield to set and prep the trim for installation. While you wait, be sure the trim clean and free of any over spray, urethane or dirt, especially where it need to attach to the clips and on the surface where everyone can see it. With the trim still off the car, use lacquer thinner or adhesive remover to remove urethane. Steel wool (very fine "000" or "0000") works well to polish the top surface or remove rust on the back side of the trim.
Gasket and glass in place: Note the clip location
Gasket and glass in place: Note the clip location
Gasket and glass in place: Note the clip location
12. Re-install the windshield trim, snapping it onto the clips you placed earlier. Again, KEEP ALL THE CLIPS when you take the glass out. You need them for re-installation. Didn't keep them? Find them online at Mega parts USA or another retailer of your choice. USE THE OLD CLIPS TO COMPARE TO THE ONES YOU BUY! Also note, the re-pops almost never fit and work quite like the original clips, so save them if you can!
Re-installed cleaned and polished stainless trim windshield surround to finish up the windshield installation.
13. Enjoy your new view!
The final result should be a sealed and well fitted windshield, free of leaks!
Application and process may vary slightly between makes and models, but the general principals will apply to this era Mopar.
Not sure you can handle it? Contact your local windshield and glass company and ask about the cost of a professional installation. They will typically not install the stainless trim for you. You'll also still need to be sure you have the parts on hand and that they are clean and ready to be placed on the car.
Did this method work for you? We welcome your feedback and questions!
Years of storage and memories on the road have this 1973 Pontiac Grand Am showing it's age with a moldy and mouse infested interior and worn out smog motor. It pulled into the shop running on 7 cylinders with a plume of blue smoke behind it. This wasn't quite what the owner remembered enjoying about the car when he first got it in the mid 70's.
It was quickly decided that a complete mechanical overhaul was a necessity. With orders to add a lot more power, enhance handling and freshen the interior, we began tear down on this customer project in the summer of 2015. It's going to be a sleeper, keeping the original look and paint of the classic Pontiac. The Hooker Aerochamber mufflers and new Crager wheels are the only hints at what's hiding under the hood.
BEFORE: 1973 Pontiac 400 smog motor, stock
BEFORE: 1973 Pontiac Grand Am: broken front facia
The seats have seen better days. Mice and mold are eating the upholstery away bit by bit. All new interior is on the way!
Let the work begin!
Engine is removed and complete mechanical dis-assembly is under way
Pontiac 400 removed from the Grand Am
Disassembly in progress, headed out for machine work
The Pontiac 400 is finished with machine work and ready for assembly and paint
Pontiac 400 ready for assembly and paint
The Pontiac block gets a fresh coat of paint
Assembly of the Pontiac 400 including aluminum heads
Assembly nearing completion
Pontiac 400, fully re-built and ready for dyno testing
Dyno day set up
Tuning and warm up on dyno day at Advanced Engine Concepts
The owner of the car is happy with his results!
See the final "hard pull" on the dyno
The re-built Pontiac 400 now makes 475 HP and 515 ftlbs torque!
The Pontiac 400 being installed into the re-painted engine bay
Pontiac Grand Am engine and engine bay: BEFORE
AFTER: The '73 Grand Am engine bay with fully rebuilt Pontiac 400, A/C, electric fan, headers, Demon carb and many new mechanical features
Repaired front facia, she's ready for the road!
New wheels and interior compliment the updated mechanical work
1973 Grand Am interior, cleaned, new upholstery, new gauges and no more mice!
Rebuilding a heater box is hopefully something you'll only have to do once. So, for that one time you choose to complete it, do it right.
Begin with the correct heater box for your make, model and year. This one will fit a 1968-1970 B-Body Mopar, in this case, a Dodge Charger WITH AIR CONDITIONING.
There is a big difference between an A/C box and one without A/C. They are not interchangeable.
1970 B-Body heater box as purchased used from an online seller. The lip is typically folded over but the seller had already had this unit apart and didn't bother to re-fold the seam. It will need a little flattening to get it to seal up and fold over properly.
Close-up of bottom of linkage system and vacuum actuator
1970 Charger Heater box, side view. Most of the hardware is 1/4".
1970 B-Body Mopar Heater Box Linkage and vacuum
This box has some rust from previously leaky and smashed lines but it's still solid and restore-able. we will clean the whole box, then sand the exterior to a final grit of 320 before we prime and paint
Back view after removing insulation from the heater box
Close up view of linkage assembly and the hardware being removed to begin dis-assembly of the box. We removed the linkage in one big piece to ensure we could clean it while keeping it in the correct configuration.
The heater box is apart with the heater core on the left and the A/C condenser on the right. Both items will be replaced. most of the seals are already falling off or missing from the inside of this box and the rodents were making large nests in the insulation
Sleeves are removed from the copper tubes
This heater box had a lot of mouse damage and some corrosion of the tubes. Most of the seam sealer on the inside of the A/C portion of the box was flaking off and will be replaced before re-painting. A run through a parts cleaner solution or a spray with Brakleen will remove a large portion of the grime from all parts of the box.
In order to replace the seals on the vent flap, we had to unfold the clips. This may take some effort. A narrow blade screw driver and a hammer will help get the lips lifted, then fold them over with a pliers. NOTE: the insulation kit DOES NOT come with the rubber seal for under the black strip that holds the vent door. We made our own out of seals we had on hand.
Internal linkage assembly will be cleaned. The flaps will be painted but the rods will be cleaned and left natural so ensure they operate properly.
Rods, flaps and linkage system are disassembled and ready for cleaning and paint. We'll use steel wool on the vacuum parts and rods, linkage and small hardware will be placed in parts cleaner. We were missing some of the old old hardware and had to replace it. The hardware kit from Classic Industries does NOT include many of the harder to find nuts, springs or cotter pins. 1 cotter pin came with the seal kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies
Repainted to match the satin black used for the interior parts on the 1970 Dodge Charger this box will be going into.
Re-painted to mimic the galvanized finish
Steel wool works wonders on vacuum parts!
Spray adhesive, new hardware, basic instructions and insulation("big" insulation kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies), new heater bypass valve, a/c evaporator and heater core are all being used in this heater box restoration
3M Spray adhesive is used to secure the insulation. No modifications were needed to make the insulation parts fit from the kit.
Insulation installation in progress
Insulation installation in progress
Insulation installation in progress
Heater Core and A/C Evaporator are in place. Notice the seals and white caulk placed on the heater core in preparation for sealing up the box. The replacement condenser is a VERY tight fit in this box because a few of the lines on the side of the part stick out a bit farther than the original one. The heater core and A/C condenser were both purchased from Classic Industries. Using clamps and a second pair of hands makes closing up the box a much faster process.
Check fit, and seals, and flap operations before closing up the box. We left the linkage and rods unpainted to ensure proper long term operation. They were not painted on the original box.
Box is assembled and hardware is in place. The lip will only be folded over to seal the box after we're happy with final inspection
Box is assembled and ready for linkage installation
Cleaned linkage and vacuum system are in place and working well.
Firewall tube seals are in place
Firewall insulation is glued to the back of the heater box.
The Final product will not only appear correct for the car, it will smell better after removing all traces of mice, the linkage will operate smoothly, and the vent doors will seal properly. This heater box is ready for installation
See the final before and after photos below:
1970 Mopar B-Body heater box with a/c before restoration(front)
1970 B-Body Mopar heater box with a/c after restoration (front)
1970 Mopar B-body heater Box with A/C before restoration (back)
1970 B-body Mopar heater box with a/c after restoration(back)
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As a restoration shop, we end up with a lot of parts that no longer work for their intended purpose. It's become my favorite hobby to create and weld these used up parts into items that are functional, or just plain fun!
Ready to weld!
Stool for our office counter
Car parts tables: Top view
Me, with the tables
Egret- customer order
Car parts horse head I made for my office wall
Mini Horse
Pen and card holder
Horseshoe pumpkins
I also work with horseshoes to create holiday decor and crafts.
Horseshoe Pumpkin
This is my new favorite way to recycle!
See something you like? I can make items to order.
The frame-off restoration of the 1951 Ford Custom Convertible was an honor to complete for the family that has loved this car since it was bought from the dealer in 1951. Complete with eagle emblem, original black WI license plate, dealer purchase receipts and service stickers, this Ford is in a class all her own.
More details about this car will follow in a future blog post.
This 1969 Dodge Charger can snap your head back as it launches down the quarter mile, drown out conversation with open headers, or quietly join the area car cruises. The owner of this car is a die hard Mopar man and has found ways to enjoy his car to fullest for the decades that he's owned it.
Equipped for the drag strip and boasting over 600HP, the 1969 Charger is a lot of fun to have around our shop. It was recently in for some added goodies including electronic cutouts from Quick Time Performance (see how they work in the video above or shop for them on Amazon), aluminum American Racing Wheels, and much wider Hoosier racing tires. Now she's ready for her next run down the 1/4 mile.
1969 Dodge Charger with Swivel Plate Installed
She's not stock my any means (sorry, we can't tell you all her secrets), but the modifications don't stop under the hood. There is a hidden feature on the interior. By adding a swivel plate to the base of the passenger seat her owner will be able to continue to enjoy her Mopar Muscle for decades to come. Although no longer behind the wheel, he gets a front row view for the wheel stands.
This car's owner has shared numerous stories of road trips and days at the drag strip where he would race it on the weekends. It is a pleasure to help him enjoy burnouts with a front row seat once again. By the grin on his face, it's obvious that he's has a deep seated love of his Mopar.
This car took a long time to finish. We'll admit to that. But we had a great reason for it. Our customers. Due to a very high volume of customer work in our shop, we pushed this shop owned builder to the "back of line" to make sure our customer work stayed on schedule. We kept in mind, that if the right buyer came along she could be ready to roll within a few weeks and could even be finished to buyer specifications upon request. Her future owner called us in March of 2015, saw the car online (we never listed it, just had it on our website) and wanted to know more about it. Well, one thing led to another and she found her new home with a Ford collector in the Virginia area.
1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL Fastback
The project started with 2, pretty rough cars owned by a collector in the Eastern WI area. He had left the Galaxies out in the weather to fend for themselves.
However, this story has a pretty happy ending....
1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL's #1 & #2 at their previous home
2 1965 Ford Galaxies: 1 with a 390 under the hood and a good frame(the red & rust colored car). The other Galaxie came with some classic custom flames(they looked even worse in person, we promise), red and white XL interior, extra trim parts, and a ROTTED frame.
1965 Ford Galaxie Project cars
This one would become our finished project
Sounds promising right? Lucky for us, it worked out pretty well. From the bones of both cars, several catalog orders for new parts and a few junkyard picks for good measure, we were able to stitch together a fully restored 1965 Galaxie 500XL Fastback that rivals the best original cars you can find, anywhere. We'll be the first to admit, we haven't seen one anywhere. Have you? Although rare is often good in terms of value, Galaxies are only just now getting popular. And a 1 year only body style makes parts searched much more complicated. Builder Beware!
Moving on.
1965 Ford Galaxie Builder
We selected the car with the solid frame to be our builder and the white car with flames defaulted to our parts car. Unfortunately they both had rotted quarters, so we had to do a lot of our own metal work despite having 2 of them.
After extensive structural overhauls (see our gallery for photos) the fastback now has 2-tone paint. Red on the body and white over the top. That's a little easier to look at than the white with orange flames or the color of "rust" the builders showed up with.
Every bolt and part, no matter how small or hidden, was gone over and refinished. The 390 was re-built, all the suspension, brakes, fuel line and steering components were replaced and new electrical harness installed.That's the long way of saying that this is now a new car, that just happens to have been "born" in 1965.
Fully restored 1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL
Interior of the "builder" car
The interior was another animal entirely. It was mostly present in the parts car we used, but much of it was beyond repair. This Galaxie now has an aftermarket, walnut steering wheel and a few added gauges. We re-finished the original gauge cluster, dash, and center console, installed a couple speakers in an inconspicuous location and wired it up to a radio/cd player.
The completed interior for the 1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL
All the seats and door panels have new, red vinyl upholstery and the correct finishes. We did not go so far as to create a resto-mod but we installed a few creature comforts on the inside while preserving the integrity of the cars styling. Fresh carpet, also in red, covers sound deadening pads which will make for a comfy, quiet ride.
We took this Galaxie out for a few test runs before we had all the parts installed.
Although it took us a while to complete this project, the results were worth the wait (see the restoration gallery). She is now rust-free and her shiny paint shows off the straightness and correctness of every panel. They didn't leave the factory this well built, but we think they should have.
65 Galaxie being loaded into Intercity Lines transport truck
We said goodbye to this 1965 Ford Galaxie 500 XL in April, 2015, as she was loaded on the truck and shipped to her new home joining a Ford collection in the Virginia area.
Looking for more information? Visit us at www.drivenrestorations.com, email drivenrestorations@gmail.com or call 608-609-5041
Every once in awhile an opportunity to do something new, different and a little bit scary presents itself. I took a leap and I said yes to my most recent opportunity: to be a part of the Valkyrie Project build team.
This leap of faith involved... booking a trip and traveling alone to Clearwater Florida to work with a group of women I have never met, to build a car I have never seen, at a shop that I have never been in. That scenario had potential to be a disaster, but I had a great "feeling" about this group of builders.
This race car project is unique in many different ways:
The build team is made up entirely of women traveling to Florida from all over the northern hemisphere
We are building a 1969 AMC AMX, just in case we thought parts might be too easy to find if we built a more mainstream model
Upon completion this car will be raising money for the Austin Hatcher Foundation and driving in the Hot Rod Power Tour(You can join us too!)
I was honored to bring some attention to this build and the fundraising efforts via Amanda Lutey's recent Beaver Dam Daily Citizen article featuring a summary of this project. We are hoping that this will be the first of many builds under the Warrior Project name, honoring the broad array of talents possessed by women in the automotive industry. Although I was only at Roberts Collision Center in Clearwater Florida, for 3 days, the team accomplished a remarkable amount of work.
Amy, Joanne, Madison and myself on my last day at the build. Meeting these ladies and working along side them was an unforgettable and rewarding experience. I also was honored to meet the driver and car owner, Karen Salvaggio, as well as Susan Carpenter and Jess Anderson.
The 1969 AMC AMX in it's base/clear color Wimbledon White from PPG. Prep work for stars and stripes are up next.
Wet sanding the clear to prep for artwork of stars and stripes
When I arrived the car was in it's final coat of primer with the engine bay in need of final prep for epoxy and then paint. With 5 people working on the car daily it moved along quickly through the process of refinishing the body.
My first day was spent prepping the car and masking it for sealer. Day 2 we had to wet sand a bit to remove some unexpected imperfections, but with teamwork and a goal in mind we had the car in base coat white by the afternoon. It was cleared later that evening using Joanne's Sata paint guns.
On day 3, my final day at the build, we wet-sanded the clear and prepped the car for artwork. Joanne finalized the color to be used for the stripes and the layout of the stars, then we started laying out stripes and masking the car.
Joanne Bortles gave me a lesson in laying stripes and keeping them straight. There isn't a better person in the industry to learn this technique from.
The AMX hood after the artwork was applied by JoAnn Bortles
The 1969 AMX after paint and body have been completed. The car has been moved to the shop for mechanical work.
This opportunity to work on the Valkyrie build has been educational, motivating and truly an inspiration. In early June, atthe Hot Rod Power Tour kick off party in Madison WI, I was able to visit with several of the women I worked with on the car, as well as a few that worked on it during different segments of the build. I finally got to show my son what I did while I was in Florida and he even got to sit behind the wheel!
1969 AMC AMX
Re-united at last! And this time I got to try out the race seats
The ladies that completed the mechanical work did a great job!
I left Florida before the car had mechanical work done and and interior, so seeing this AMX completed with all the finishing touches was like looking at a totally different car. The race ready goodies under the hood combined with the stock appearing exterior and custom paint, make this build truly a one of a kind.
Airbrush artist Tracy at Crazee Paint provided a Valkyrie painting for the car
The interior is race day ready
Susan Carpenter, Amy Fitgerald and Molly with the 1969 AMX Valkyrie build at the 2015 Hot Rod Power Tour in Madison WI
The completed 1969 AMC AMX: a view from the back
After completing the Power tour, the AMC went back to it's home in California to begin a racing career. Karen Salvaggio had her on the track for test and tune shortly after arriving out West.
Karen Salvaggio hit the track
The AMX stands out on the track!
A look under the hood of the '69 AMC AMX
The car's final appearance was at the 2015 Sema show, featured by Spanesi. Although I was not able to attend the show, at least a dozen of the build team member were there to represent this woman built classic race car.
Until next time...this build is in the books!
See more about this build including timeline, sponsors, fundraising and recent updates at The Valkyrie Project Blog
This International Tractor has been in the same family for the entirety of it's existence. Although there are some missing parts, and a few repairs that are anything but "original", it has served the family well and they hope to have it re-painted and restored to it's former glory in an effort to preserve the tractor for use around the family farm for many years to come. It was still in use when we first met the owners. It's primarily used for mowing, and this International still runs like a top! The side panels were removed somewhere along the line and are hidden in the depths of the property. One of the control levers is sheared off and held together with a bolt and hose clamp, and the upholstery on the seat is almost completely gone, but this tractor is a staple of it's home farm.
We are going to help make sure it stays that way.
Please enjoy these photos of this International tractor as we progress down the long, winding road of our shops first ever tractor restoration.
The International 460 Utility tractor, ready for delivery to our shop for a complete restoration. It was still in use when we saw it for the first time in September of 2014, and it needs to be ready for spring 2015 mowing!
Degrease #2 of the International tractor
Dis-assembly is under way with draining fluids and sheet metal removal
Dis-assembly continues. More dirt and grease under every part we take off! Several 5 gallon buckets worth of grease were scraped off this tractor
Parts removed and completely de-greased...4 times.Every time a part was removed, a new layer of dirt had to be removed through scraping, power-washing and eventually we could see the codes and stamping on almost every part on this 1959 tractor. Considering it's age, it's in pretty good shape and runs great!
Stripped off all "removable" parts to access the steering box which is in need of a re-build
Paint is stripped from the grill, side panels and other existing sheet metal. Sheet metal straightening and repair will begin shortly to ensure proper fit and a great looking finish!
1959 International 460 Utility Tractor after sandblasting of the major parts of the frame and engine. We've discovered a few parts that will require repair or replacement including the rear tire tube on the back wheel shown here. If we let it keep leaking there's no way our fresh paint would stick!
International Utility tractor in it's fresh coat of paint. We used hardened single stage paint to ensure a long lasting finish on the tractor and matched the color to the original paint codes.
Assembly is underway.
All mechanical aspects of the tractor have been checked and repaired as needed. The steering box was removed and rebuilt and the drag link ends were replaced removing the play from the steering wheel
As Mechanical assembly continues with the last of the parts painted and ready for install(shown above), we move on to complete the sheet metal repair and straightening. The tractor is also completely re-wired, and a couple new pieces are fabricated for the battery box
The original seat has been re-covered and the seat frame and brackets were repaired and refinished. A new steering wheel, tachometer, cigar lighter, and all electrical components top off the refinished instrument panel and we replaced the long missing and forgotten knob on the gear shift. The broken shift lever was also replaced with a used on purchased from Maine Tractor Crossing.
With the grill in it's final stages of assembly with the correct screen behind it, here's a peak at the front emblem. This international hasn't been this perfect since the day it rolled out of the factory! It's nearly ready to return to the family farm! Did we mention it's been owned by 1 family since it was new? There is a neat history behind this one.
Here is a taste of how far this tractor has come. We brought this beauty back from broken and missing pieces, a mixture of at home repairs and make shift parts, and mostly grease and dirt covering the whole tractor. The final product will be revealed soon. Needless to say she is beautiful, clean, straight and fully repaired. A true beauty.
Final touches are happening now, emblems, fluids and a final test run.
Below is a live Google calendar containing a current list of 2015 Wisconsin Car Shows and automotive events. This is a LIVE calendar. You can view events in coming months by hitting the left and right arrows near the month name. You can also click the event name for a little more detail and web links for each car show or cruise.
Something missing? Comment below or email drivenrestorations@gmail.com to have your event added to our calendar
